Three Days in Nagoya

Monday, July 25, 2016

We left Kyoto after checking out of our hotel and took the three trains to Nagoya. It was only $25 one way, compared to the $100 we would have paid for the shinkansen. And since we didn’t have any plans for the day, I decided to save the money. It took a lot longer though and required going through a couple of the local stations but I had looked up the route before and knew what to ask for. Otherwise, we would have run into some problems, I think.

(Travel Hint: When going to destinations that require train changes, go to the train route finder at www.jorudan.co.jp before leaving, decide the cities and routes you want, and write or print out and bring with, so it’s handy to show a train conductor if in doubt.)

After getting off the train at Nagoya though, it was apparent we weren’t in Kyoto anymore where they have signs directing tourists to ‘Tourist Friendly Taxis This Way, No Extra Charge’. There was no English-speaking, tourist-friendly anything here. It took a couple tries before The Professor was finally able to get a cab driver to understand which hotel we needed.

After checking into our hotel, the Hotel Trusty Nagoya, and picking our weird breakfast choice for the next day (we chose the least weird set of potato soup, green salad, sausage, scrambled egg, cheese/ham sandwich, and yogurt combo), we walked around our neighborhood to see what there was to see. We ended up finding some great deals on random stuff. I bought a $200 Jean Paul Gaultier leopard print-in-a-black-basket-base purse in the classic basket style that goes with a Kimono marked down to $5(!) from a kimono company, and a made-in-Japan kitchen spatula for $7 (all of them in the US are made in China!) at a small local department store. I said it was random stuff.

Clutching my prizes we were ready for dinner and after walking around some more, we decided to try a very cute, New York-style, modern bistro called Meat (or something similar). Though really wanting pasta, I figured I better try their meat since I assumed it was their specialty. And it was delicious.

Our day in Nagoya, after a rather rocky start at our station arrival, turned out to be a smashing success.

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

The next morning we met up with our friends Mayumi and Alani—our reason for being in Nagoya.

They took us to lunch at a very old restaurant that is famous for its eel, called Ibashou. The specialty here is the Nagoya style of eating unagi called Hitsumabushi which refers to the four ways to eat eel.

The four ways to eat eel: first, with the rice; second, use the spices, wasabi, and green onions; third, pour tea over it; and finally the fourth way is to repeat your favorite way. My favorite was with the condiments as I have always been the Condiment Queen when it comes to eating anything.

We had to take our shoes off and I had to slide myself under those low, traditional Japanese tables, but except for a slight twinge or two and my leg starting to fall asleep, I made it. And the eel was worth it.

After finishing our delicious lunch and getting the blood moving again in my legs, we took the cab in the pouring rain to a nearby covered shopping area filled with all types of stores. It looked to be something from the 60s. We walked through the mall to get out of the rain and exited on the other side to see their shrine with its impressive lantern at the entrance.

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After checking out the shrine, we took the cab to the Hawaiian restaurant, Makapúu, to hang out until Alani’s gig later in the afternoon. Alani is a slack-key master and we were going to enjoy an evening of Hawaiian music.

The restaurant was quite a ways out in the outer reaches of Nagoya City and was a nice, long drive in the rain.

We had more good company once we arrived with another friend, Leila, who was managing the other musical act, Herb Ohta Junior, a well-known Hawaiian ukulele player. We had a relaxing afternoon, listening to the rain pour outside while Herb discussed his disappointments of Godfather III with The Professor, and they set up for the concerts later in the evening.

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The first set started at 5:30 and went for an hour. The second set started at 7:30 and also went for an hour. The music was beautiful and at the end of the evening the restaurant served us all a Hawaiian specialty of freshly made, delicious Loco Moco, (handmade hamburger patty on rice with a fresh egg on top)! It was like a quick trip to Hawaii.

And the whole time it rained.

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

After another weird breakfast of potato soup etc at our hotel, we were met by Alani and Mayumi, and an old friend of Alani’s who lives in Nagoya and had a van.

We were going to get a quick visit to Nagoya’s other tourist destination, their castle, before departing on the shinkansen at 12:30pm.

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It had stopped raining thankfully, so we had a pleasant walk through the grounds.

They are updating parts of the castle so we had to don hardhats for part of the tour. The main castle however has been remodeled because it had an elevator (!) which we took to the top for time purposes, of course.

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We walked down and discovered that each level had some fun thing on it—the view from the top, followed by souvenir shops, and photo ops along the way. It was a nice way to spend a couple of hours and it was not as crazy busy as Himeji. Also, not having to walk up the five flights: Priceless!

Out on the grounds again, we ran into some ninjas and feudal lords. All in all, it was definitely worth the visit if one is in Nagoya.

We made a mad dash to the train and made it with only a couple of minutes to spare.

And then we were on our way back to Tokyo.

The Gion-Matsuri Parade: Another Perfect Day in Kyoto

Sunday, July 24, 2016

I’m not generally a parade person. In America, they are usually filled with marching bands and clowns (neither of which are my favorite) and end with guys on horses and the poor smucks relegated to cleaning up their messes.

At the Gion Matsuri this Japanese-style parade is not only none of those things, it is an amazing slice of history.

According to the website Japan-Guide.com:

"The Gion Matsuri [is] the festival of Yasaka Shrine, [and] is the most famous festival in Japan. It takes place over the entire month of July. There are many different events, but the grand procession of floats (Yamaboko Junko) on July 17 is particularly spectacular… From 2014, a second procession of floats was reintroduced on July 24 after a hiatus of 48 years. The second procession features fewer and smaller floats than the one on July 17…the word Yamaboko refers to the two types of floats used in the procession: the 23 yama and 10 hoko. One of the main reasons the Gion Matsuri is so impressive is the enormity of the hoko, which are up to 25 meters tall, weigh up to 12 tons, and are pulled on wheels as big as people. Both yama and hoko are elaborately decorated and represent unique themes. The procession on July 17 features 23 yama and hoko, including most of the particularly impressive hoko, while the procession on July 24 features the remaining ten yama and hoko.

"Another reason for the festival's impressiveness is its long and almost uninterrupted history. It dates back to 869 as a religious ceremony to appease the gods during the outbreak of an epidemic…”

That’s a whole lot of history.

I can’t speak for what the July 17th version was like, but the one on the 24th was awesome enough for me. 

We arrived about an hour before the first float was scheduled to appear at the corner of Shijo and Kawaramachi streets, and stood in the shade of the overhang across from the Takashimaya Department store. It turned out to be the best location and by bringing a selfie stick, The Professor was able to get amazing shots of the parade.

First, there were smaller shrines carried down the street, followed by women in kimonos, people dressed as white peacocks, small groups of musicians playing traditional music (of drums, flutes, and bells or gongs), kids on horses dressed in historic garb, samurai, and geishas. This portion is simple and amazing.

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Then about an hour into the parade the first of the big wooden floats arrives from the side. There are two types of floats—those that are pushed on wheels but at the corners are picked up by a large group of men and turned by brute force to go in the new direction required of the corner, and the really large floats that weigh up to 12 tons that must be moved by a very complicated process that requires whole teams of men to lay down reeds, others to pour water on them, a huge gaggle to pull the carts, and a select few who hang from the front of the floats gracefully directing the men to pull and in which direction, using a series of hand movements and their fans. It is so beautiful to watch and the process must be repeated for each float no less than three times before the float has managed to be redirected in the new direction of the corner, before it can continue down the street.

And some of the groups who lift the smaller floats to turn them, do not want to be outdone by the larger floats,  so they will turn their float two, sometimes more times around in circles before setting it down again on the wheels. The more they do it, the bigger the cheers from the audience. These floats may be smaller, but one can tell they are definitely not lightweight, and the multiple turnings are for true showmanship.

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After the final float passed, the original groups of hand-carried smaller shrines, women in kimonos, people dressed as white peacocks, kids on horses dressed in historic garb, samurai, and geishas walked back past us. It was so pretty.

When the parade finally ended, we went and got some lunch, then took the bus back to the stop for the Kiyomizu-dera temple.

By then It was really hot again and we were full from lunch, so what do we end up doing? We trudge up the hill, through the crowds, past all the stores selling stuff to see the temple we had seen in 2010. Ugh. Frankly, we had forgotten how much walking uphill was involved.

I’m glad we saw the shrine before, because we found at reaching the top that much of it is under construction—so we didn’t bother to pay the admission price to go out onto the terrace that overlooks Kyoto. It’s pretty, but we were hot, tired, and through with spending money for shrine admissions. We had reached the saturation point of ‘Oh-no. Not another shrine!’

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After checking out the crowds of people for a while,  we headed back down the hill through the meandering streets and past the cute little shops to our hotel.

After relaxing for a couple of hours we walked down Shijo to recreate the Tofu dinner experience that we had in 2010 and has been one of The Professor’s favorites ever since. They changed the menu up a bit since last time, but it’s basically 9 courses of (mostly) tofu or yuba at Ume no Hana. One of the courses alone makes it worth the trek—tofu, this time matcha-flavored, cooked right at the table. It is oh, so good.

Ume no Hana is a definite yes in our book and was a perfect end to a perfect stay in perfect Kyoto.

Stone Cold Foxes and Parades in Kyoto

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Saturday’s forecast was for yet another hot day but we couldn’t let it dampen our plans (only our armpits). We were heading to one of my favorite places of all: the Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine with its winding paths and over 5,000 bright orange tori gates lining the paths behind it.

It has got to be one of the most photographed areas of Japan because it is so impressive. We took the local Keihan Railway and got off at the Fushimi-inari Station and walked only a few minutes to the shrine area.

This shrine was built in the 8th century and dedicated to the god of rice and sake. There are lots of fox statues throughout the shrine’s area and are the area’s mascot. These foxes are known as the messengers of the god of grain, Inari, and are also called Inari, are everywhere, and are featured on everything.

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It was mid morning by the time we got to the shrine and though it was hot, the place was jumping with people. We walked and walked and sweated and sweated, stopping along the way to see the pond and take some more photos.

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However, when we found out we had only gone about halfway up the mountain, we decided to turn and head back down to the train station. We had seen lots of tori gates, (stone cold) foxes, and people by then, and were ready for lunch with a cold beer.

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Though we had gone further than the last time we had visited, there is still half a mountain to explore. I understand there is a monkey park at the top of the mountain, but I also understand it is quite the hot hike to get there. Those monkeys will just have to go unvisited again, I’m afraid.

This is still one of my favorite places in Kyoto to visit though.

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We headed back to town and after a wonderful lunch of sliced duck, edamame, and a cold beer back at the restaurant (couldn’t read the name of the place) on the top floor of the OIOI building at the intersection of Shijo and Kawaramachi streets, we were ready for the rest of our planned festivities.

We planned on seeing the pre-parade festivities of the Gion Matsuri.

The Gion Matsuri is a month-long festival in Kyoto and its highlights are the two parades—one on the 17th and one on the 24th featuring impressive wooden floats. I understand there are more floats in the parade on the 17th, but a friend of ours who is from Kyoto and was going to show us around, told us to come on the 24th, so we did.

Though the festival is associated with the Yasaka Shrine in Gion, the parades actually take place on the other side (West, I think) of the Kamo River. We got a map with the exact times the floats would be at each corner of the route from the hotel front desk. The fun thing is to watch the men turn the huge floats at each corner of the route.

These floats are made of wood, (some of which weigh up to 12 tons and are pulled by 50 men) and are constructed without nails, and then decorated in fine tapestries and decorations from Europe, China, India, and of course Japan.

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We wandered around the streets where the floats were set-up for public viewing. Each of the neighborhoods surrounding the floats had what appeared to be mini street fairs going on. There were food booths, booze booths, and vendors selling clothes, and all matters of miscellaneous stuff for really cheap. I ended up buying a beautiful pashmina for $4. It had nothing to do with Japan or the festival—I just fell in love with the color and the price. It’s a great time to pick up gifts.

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There was music playing and people wandering around until late into the evening. It was quite festive.

It was a great time to visit Kyoto and especially to be in the Gion area. We ended up going home around 11pm so we could get up early the next morning for the parade.

Searching for Zen Moments in Kyoto

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Wednesday we left Osaka for Kyoto on the slow train. (At $5 for the thirty-minute local train ride it was way better on our budget than almost $100 for a ten-minute ride on an express.) We spent the rest of the day wandering around our hotel located in the Gion district. We came specifically to see the Gion Matsuri, one of the biggest festivals in Japan.

Last time we were in Kyoto we stayed in a different neighborhood. This time, we are right next to the Yasaka Shrine in Gion at the Hotel Sunline Kyoto Gion Shijyo. It’s the perfect location! Past the hotel there are numerous shrines, old gardens, and beautifully restored villas and buildings as well as all the little stores and restaurants that make up the Gion district. Thumbs up to this hotel.

Thursday we headed to a new destination we’d never seen before: the Bamboo Forest of the Arashiyama district.

After a quick train ride from Kyoto station we got off at the Saga-Arashiyama train station. Following the signs and the crowds we headed to the grove of bamboo. 

It was amazing. We stopped to admire the green oasis and to absorb a rush of serenity from the coolness and sound of the rustling leaves. After this moment of zen, we soldiered on through the bamboo respite and on down the road, entering the heat once again.

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Our next stop was the cottage of the poet Mukai Kyorai from the late 1600s, called Rakushisha. It is a pretty little spot. The cottage has been renovated and one can still see the ancient kitchen facilities complete with a well right inside the room. It is not a kitchen of convenience and it made me want to run home and hug my microwave.

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We picked up a map from the woman at the cottage because there are lots of country roads to wander down and we had a goal in mind of course, and we were going to need help to find it.

Along the path, we ran into lots of little artisan shops, and shops selling gifts and snacks, along with a few restaurants, and of course, vending machines.

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It’s advised to keep an eye out for rickshaws-they can be a blast from the past that could ruin one’s day if they run into you.

As I mentioned, there are lots of shrines along the way, but we didn’t stop at too many because we were headed to the Buddhist shrine Adashino-Nenbutsu-ji. It’s one of the larger ones and is famous for its 8,000 pauper graves. It’s a beautiful place and features its own bamboo grove, and its own brand of serenity.

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After walking around here for a while we decided to head back.

By the time we had made it to the bamboo forest around 2pm or so, there were lots more people around and it was a whole lot hotter.

Returning to the main area of crowds, we decided to stop and check out a bit of the Tenryuji Temple area. We opted just to take a few photos of the outside and then hightailed it back to the JR. I fear we have reached the saturation point of beautiful gardens and shrines (oh no, not another shrine)!

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We may have returned overly heated once again, but the walk was filled with so many beautiful things. It was definitely worth it and we found zen in many shapes and in so many places!

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Finding Brilliant Golds, Blues and Reds in Kyoto

Friday, July 22, 2016

Friday was another hot and intensely bright day—and the perfect day to head to the Golden Pavilion. Kinkaku-ji, officially named Rokuon-ji, is a Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. It is also known as the Golden Pavilion and is one of the most popular buildings in Japan. Which makes sense when one sees it—as it is indeed very gold!

The last time we were there in 2010 it was raining. It was also a bit confusing to get to on the bus. There was nothing in English to let us know where we were while on the bus. This time, the Japanese transportation people have made it much easier. We just had to follow the signs at the Kyoto station for the bus going to Kinkaku-ji. They even color-coded the bus routes and added English names! (See examples.)

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We entered through the back of the bus (and paid when exiting). We simply had to listen for the announcement of our destination—in English. The bus reader also shows what the next stop will be— in English! It was so much easier this time around! Yay!

Upon exiting the bus we followed the signs up the small hill and across the street to the entrance and followed the crowd to the entrance gates. There weren’t any apparent signs directing us to the exact entrance, but when in doubt, follow the crowds is my motto, and we found our way easily.

After paying the 400yen, and entering into the shrine area, the park directs everyone to follow the path in one direction—so there really is no getting lost.

The Pavilion was so beautiful and shiny in the bright, hot sunshine! We might have been melting this time around at the Golden Pavilion but the intensity of the sun sure made for bright, blue skies and a pretty intense gold in the pictures!

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We walked past the Pavilion, posed to take some pictures and selfies, walked alongside the pond to get pictures from all sides (of the building and garden, not of us). We then started back with the crowds, stopping at one of the gift shops on property where I picked up a sunglass case covered in pretty Japanese silk, then for an icee at a refreshment stand, then out the gates.

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There are a lot of gift shops in the area but we are shopped out, so we ignored them all and just jumped back on the bus.

Later that evening we wandered around the Gion district. It really is a great part of Kyoto to stay. There are stores for shopping, and bars and restaurants to try, and shrines to add some historic charm.

The main streets of Gion were lit with red lanterns celebrating the Gion Matusuri, which we had come to see. It was pretty and fun to simply wander around.

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And after a day spent in the heat, and tasty food and drinks at Kirin City Bar, we were ready to call it a day.

 

Climbing a National Treasure: Himeji Castle

Monday, July 18, 2016

After recuperating from our long, hot trip to Rabbit Island the day before, we had one more significantly easier day trip from Osaka to do. It was to Himeji Castle.

We took a local train to Himeji from Shin-Osaka for about $16ow and in less than two hours we were there.

Arriving at the station one can see the castle in the distance looking very imposing indeed.

Once exiting the train station, it’s a very easy walk to get to the castle. Either walk up the broad avenue towards the castle, take a bus, a cab if you’re lazy, or do what we did: walk through the covered shopping area that is parallel to the main drag keeping in the shade most of the way. It’s about a twenty-minute walk or so and when it’s 90plus, it’s good to escape the sun for that time.

Exiting the covered walkway, we then had to walk a block or so, cross a busy street, and then follow the crowds to the front of the castle entrance. By the time we arrived at the entrance to the castle we were sweating, and hoped for coolness inside the building.

There are two options available for entrance: either 1000yen (about $10) for the castle only, or for 1400yen (about $14) one can see the gardens to the left of the castle as well. We opted for the garden/castle combo because I had read that the gardens were beautiful and for $4 I wasn’t going to miss them.

Entering the castle entrance, there are some great photo ops for awesome shots but very little shade.

Once entering the structure of the castle itself, everyone must remove their shoes and carry them for the remainder of the visit. And by ‘Visit’ I mean a climb of five or six stories on wooden stairs that get narrower and steeper as one reaches the top.

There is really nothing to see except the view from the windows. There is an app available that one can download and which I believe provides some historical information. We didn’t do that, though. So basically we just followed the crowd up to the top and then followed them back down to the bottom.

Luckily, inside the castle it was cool-ish and there was a lovely breeze that came in through the open windows the higher we went. Thank god.

This is not a place for people suffering from claustrophobia or the inability to climb up six flights of very narrow stairs.

But everyone who gets to the top wins a prize! Not really.

 

But it does provide some beautiful views.

After exiting the castle grounds, we walked along the moat to the left side of the castle and entered the gardens.

 

They were beautiful and offered some respite from the horrible heat and definitely worth a visit.

 

After walking around here, we wandered across the street for a cold beer and then slowly walked back to the station.

We decided to wait an hour or so until it got dark to see the castle lit up before heading back to Osaka.

 

It slowly turned a different color. And then we headed home—fried from the heat.

This was a day trip I suggest anyone in Osaka take.