Baskin Robbins, How About Curry for Flavor Number 35?

Thursday, August 4, 2016

Where can one go to see people dressed in giant cat costumes, eat overpriced gyoza and curry or coal-flavored ice cream, and fight crowds of overexcited children—paying about $5 each for the privilege of doing so? Namco NAMJATOWN in Sunshine City, that’s where!

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Intrigued by the articles I’d read of their unusually flavored ice cream—like whale, squid, or snake—I decided we needed to check out this place in our last few days in Tokyo. Plus who doesn’t like a goofy, old-timey amusement center? I know we do! Remember our trip to Yomiuriland in February?

We took the train to Ikebukuro and followed the signs to Sunshine City. I wish we had had lots of times to explore this area because there were lots of shopping and restaurants here and it looked like it could be a fun way to spend an afternoon. But we had ice cream to eat, so we followed the dubious Google Maps looking for NAMJATOWN.

Tokyu Hands is on the right side of the Sunshine City Street. There is an escalator right past the store’s entrance and by taking it down and then following the signs to the Sunshine 60 building, it will take you into the mall of Sunshine City where NAMJATOWN is. Unfortunately, we did not realize that until we were leaving NAMJATOWN and, instead, followed Google Maps in a very roundabout and exhausting route down streets and around the entire Sunshine City Mall before we finally managed to find an information desk to inquire about the whereabouts of NAMJATOWN. For some reason it was very hard for us to find it. The entrance to NAMJATOWN is on the 2nd floor of the Sunshine City Mall and it turns out everything NAMJATOWN has to offer—including gyoza and weird-flavored ice cream—is on that one floor (I’d read articles that made this fact confusing to me).

We bought a simple adult entrance fee and by showing our passport, got tickets for two for 900yen (or about $9). The regular adult price is 500yen each. Then we entered the craziness, armed with only our English NAMJATOWN Guide into the cacophony of over-sugared, over-stimulated children, and many assorted video game noises of all kinds going off all at once.

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Most of NAMJATOWN is for little kids and most of it is in Japanese so we wandered around, taking pictures of the weird bits of Japanese knick-knacks and statues they have scattered around for décor, and looking for the food.

The Gyoza Stadium area is to the right of the main entrance. There are a series of restaurants located here selling all kinds of dumplings, fried chicken bits, noodle soups, and other Japanese delicacies, along with drinks and beer. We ordered some things and then took our baskets of food to find a table down one of the side corridors.Turns out, $25 does not buy much.

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We finished eating pretty quickly and were ready for dessert; so after locating the Ice Shop on the map (area #5), we headed over to peruse the list of weird-flavored ice creams of the day. They offer a special of six flavors for under $4, so The Professor and I both decided to do that so we could taste more of the flavors. Thankfully, we only had one overlap in choices so we were able to try 11 different flavors.

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While there was no snake or whale available—and therefore no personal demons to be battled—it was still a tough choice for me to narrow it down to 6 flavors. I was really intrigued by the Haddock sherbet, corn, crab, and kelp choices, but abiding by my Norwegian ancestral desires, I finally chose the Salt of Okhotsk, Hokkaido Potato, and Double Cheese. Then to broaden my horizons I added the Indian Curry, Coal, and ‘The Wasabi’. The Professor chose: Miso, Beef Tongue, Eel (or Eal according to the list), Whiskey, ‘The Wasabi’, and a Japanese Plum sherbet.

I loved all of mine except for the coal, because it only tasted like vanilla. I didn’t try the plum sherbet, but of The Professor’s other choices, I liked the Miso, the eel, and, of course, ‘The Wasabi’.

With confused taste buds and a full tummy, we sauntered back into the noise of children and video games. After looking at the choices, we decided against spending any more money on the games—though some descriptions in the brochure made me laugh. For instance, the Hell’s Restroom description sounded like a normal day in any New York City Restroom.

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After a quick stop for a pic with the giant cat people who are the mascots of the place, we left NAMJATOWN and headed back out into the hot, humid city and home. 

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Here Neko, Neko!

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Looking for something fun to do in the afternoon, we decided to head to the Gotokuji Shrine to see all the cats. The Japanese love cats. Not only do you see a fair amount of real cats around the neighborhoods and lurking in the lush parks and cemeteries, but they are also featured as statues of good luck. I am more of a dog person myself, but I do love the good luck cats.

Everyone has seen the good luck cat dolls. They sit with either a right or a left paw raised.

According to the Japan Monthly Web Magazine provided by the Japan National Tourism Organization, “In Japan they are called Maneki Neko (beckoning or welcoming cat) and it is popular in Japan as a lucky charm that invites happiness. It is said that the one with its right paw raised invites money and the one with its left paw raised invites people.”

We took the train to Gotokuji station, and then proceeded to get very lost in the little neighborhood with wandering streets. Finally, Google Maps kicked in and realized we didn’t just want to walk around Gotokuji proper, we might actually want to see the shrine. Once Google Maps figured it out and showed us the way, it was a 15-minute walk to the shrine grounds.

To get into the shrine area, we had to follow along the fenced-in area until we finally found a side gate. By the time we arrived, it was after 5pm and I was sure the shrine would be closed—but it wasn’t and we walked in to the very large park-like setting.

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There were quite a few structures—shrines, and pagodas, and what looked like a gift shop which was closed.

At first, all I saw was a wooden cut-out of a Good Luck cat in front of the closed gift shop, and I was sad because I thought maybe the cats were located in one of the closed buildings.

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But they were not! We eventually found them after wandering around the grounds. They are located opposite the big wooden cat and around the side of one of the big buildings.

 

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There are more cats here than at a Cat Woman’s Jamboree (if there was such a thing). Local business owners hoping to improve their business drop off these cats. If it works, there must be a lot of successful business owners.

And all these cats—even for this dog person—made me smile.

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Doctors. Nachos, and Godzilla. Only in Tokyo.

Yesterday was overcast and cool.  We went for a long walk through the neighborhood getting lost in the winding roads around our apartment. It was cool and the gray skies made the colors of the many flowers in bloom pop. There are a lot of random plants and gardens scattered throughout the neighborhood and it makes for some really pretty floral surprises. Yellows, pinks, fuchsias, purples, oranges, reds, whites and periwinkle await you at every corner.

Not to mention the cool shrines and cemeteries.

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Wednesday it was hot and we had plans.

First at 5pm we had a doctor appt. The Professor had been sick for a week, but of course miraculously healed in the hours right before his appt. And I had been having issues from an old war wound and agreed to go to the doctors so I could see what it was like to go to a doctor in Japan.

It was easy.

We arrived about 10 minutes before our appointment and I answered about five questions, including the one that said I did not have a Japanese insurance card.

We went in and about 20 minutes later we were both back out again. Cost of our two appointments without insurance: about $100. Not too bad.

Then we walked to a bar that we had seen the last time we were in the neighborhood—called Mother’s. It was totally cute and looked like it belonged in Mendocino California. It was very 70s-inspired with burl redwood furniture, and reggae playing in the background. It feels like it was carved out of a tree or built of mosaics. It feels very old school and it felt very Northern Californian hippy--and The Professor and I loved it.

The girl who waited on us was really nice and spoke English. We ordered a beer and an Oolong Hai which was tea and shoshu. Ummm. Then we ordered some nachos ‘cause I’m still needing my Mexican food fix.

They were delish.  After sitting in the bar for an hour or so, we headed off to our next destination: Godzilla!

Above the Toho Cinemas in Shinjuku is Godzilla’s head.

I love Godzilla.

The Professor did some research and found out if we went to the hotel next door, they have a terrace on the 8th floor where we could get photos of the monster up close and personal. So off we went.

Googling the directions for the Toho Cinema, we winded our way through the craziness that is Shinjuku in the evening. It’s like Times Square but without the Mid-western tourists, filth, and corruption. There’re lots of lights and visitors and people vying for attention and money.

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Heading towards the monster head, we made for the Hotel Gracery and  followed the signs to the 8th floor terrace and restaurant.

If you don’t make eye contact you can rush out to the terrace where the monster head is. There is a sign that says only hotel or restaurant guests can go, but this being Japan, I don’t think they’d stop you.

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We decided to order and sit for a spell so we ordered a beer, a glass of wonderful rosé and a plate of sliced duck to share. At only $30 for everything,  it wasn’t so bad and the rosé and duck were excellent, so I think it was worth it.

There is also a gift shop right outside the restaurant where you can purchase Godzilla gifts. I bought a magnet ‘cause I love the big fella. But of course it’s not mandatory.

Where else but Tokyo can you start with a leisurely stroll through flower- and shrine-filled neighborhoods one day, then the next go from your doctor’s appointment, to oolong tea with booze and nachos, to ending your evening with Godzilla doing a photo bomb?

Keeping the River on My Right in Tokyo

Saturday, July 2, 2016

It was hot and humid yesterday so what better place to head than outside to sweat? I decided to go walk along the river near our apartment because it’s not only one of my favorite areas within walking distance—but it’s also much cooler along the water.

The scenery along the river is always beautiful and its looks vary, depending upon the season. I enjoy stopping to peer down into the water below to see what types of fish and fowl are hanging out, too. It’s a regular Wild Kingdom episode sometimes.

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I decided to explore and to walk further along the river than I have so far to see what I could see. I figured if I kept the river on my right I wouldn’t get lost and it would give me a direction.

Turns out about 30 minutes down the road, the river actually disappears though. I had two choices: move inward a couple of blocks to see if I could find it or to continue down the straight, and very busy, Shin Mejiro Dori. I decided to walk along the road to see what would unfold. It seemed easier. And it was hot.

I walked past old, intriguing restaurants and some familiar names.

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I then walked past an old shrine area located directly off of this very busy, modern road.

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After leaving the shrine area, I continued down the main road another ten minutes or so, and noticed a gate to what appeared to be a garden or a park a couple blocks away. It looked cool and green and very inviting--so I turned right, leaving the crazy traffic behind and headed towards it.

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Walking in was not a mistake. It was beautiful, and instantly much cooler. Unsure of what I’d walked into though, I began quickly taking photos and preparing to be kicked out.

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I followed the path in and then made for the stairs at the end of the path. Up, past the red-bibbed guys I climbed, snapping photos all along the way.

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Then at the top of the stairs I found myself entering a cemetery. I had a quick look, took a photo, then turned back to go down the stairs. There wasn’t a lot of shade and frankly it wasn’t nearly as nice as the garden area I’d just left.

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Finding the garden had been  a nice respite and a very pleasant surprise. But just like that, I was deposited back out into the hot, sunny day with a long hot walk ahead of me.

I decided to head back—this time on the other side of the road. Soon I came upon the river again, looking very different from our little neighborhood slice. 

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 I headed toward Takadanobaba, stopping at a used bookstore, before walking back home.

Fireflies Live a Fulfilling Life, Even in Tokyo

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Friday, June 17, 2016

Friday was the first day of a five-day firefly extravaganza at the Botanical Garden Fureai in Shibuya. When I say extravaganza I am being extremely generous. What it is, is a small botanical garden about a 15-minute walk from the Shibuya train station that no one would ever visit without this much-touted event. It runs from June 17-21, 5:30-9:00 pm, and is free.

We got there around opening and waited in a short line for about ten minutes or so. Once inside, we followed everyone up the stairs to a film-viewing area and sat down. For the next 20 minutes or so we watched the film detailing the life cycle of the Japanese firefly. I’m sure it was very educational, but since it was in Japanese, I split my time of watching the film with watching all the people jumping up and down out of their seats. 

Thinking we needed to kill time until it got darker, we sat there longer than we wanted, but finally, the film—shown on a loop—came round to the beginning of its riveting beginning. Glancing outside at the still rather light sky, we reluctantly got up to follow the others down the stairs. As it turned out, we could have cut out way before the bug’s life story ended, because the garden is shrouded in a black-out drape and it is really dark inside.

The garden area is very small and broken into two draped off areas. And from the dark depths one sees the bright glow of the little buggers as they try to make a date with the other fireflies.

These Japanese fireflies have much longer-lasting lights than the ones in NYC. It was pretty cool. We walked through and a few moments later, we exited the building to find quite a crowd waiting in line to enter.

Glad we went and glad it was free. No photos were allowed inside the room so picture above is for mood only!

We then took off for the crowded firefly-free Shibuya area in search of an izakaya for food and booze.

Sunday, June 12, 2016

This past weekend was the two-day Shibuya-Kagoshima Ohara Festival with the highlight on Sunday: the parade of dancers. It is touted as one of the biggest festivals of this type…or something that made it a don’t-miss. I honestly couldn’t remember what its claim to fame was, but since I had added it to our calendar, I knew we had to make the trek.

Exiting the Shibuya station at the Hachiko Square side is the important first step, because as anyone who has been to Shibuya knows, the place is huge. We have exited on the wrong side many times, and it will instantly put you in a foul mood. Trust me.

Once we exited, we headed for the giant 109 sign that is across, and to the left, at the infamous Shibuya Crossing. For this event, they also had added a giant blow-up arch at the entrance to the parade area, so it really is hard to miss.

According to the program we picked up: the event is a traditional festival that Shibuya City and Kagoshima City have been jointly hosting for, I’m assuming, 19 years (since this is referred to as the 19th Festival).  It consists of 65 groups representing the different areas around Japan all dancing in the parade to—according to the program—the ‘rhythm of the Ohara-bushi and the Shibuya ondo dance songs.’

The program also depicts the eleven steps to the dance if one wants to join in.

The parade is held on the Dogenzaka and Bunkarmura-dori streets that run along either side of the 109 building.

The parade started sometime after 12 with the Tokyo Fire and Disaster Management Agency Band marching past, playing a song, and carrying a banner showing some big object falling on a guy (nice). Their mascot was a big alien with a helmet for a head and weird antennae, who marched along in front of them waving, and was accompanied by a guy with strange mutton-chop sideburns who looked to be an escapee from the 1800s (not sure who he was).

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Then Taiko drummers started drumming as the sixty-five groups gathered on the streets, preparing to dance, and posed for pictures. All the groups eventually lined up in two lines on both sides of the 109 building.

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Once the singing began, one of the lines danced clockwise while the other one danced in a counter-clockwise direction. It was an ingenious way to keep the parade footprint small and to maximize the exposure for all sixty-five groups.

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Here is a very short video of part of a song. I thought these older ladies in their kimonos were adorable—so petite and so elegant: https://youtu.be/eEHi2NJS3kY

There were little kids, old people, and every age in between participating. They all danced the same dance moves (more or less) over and over again, accompanied by either a man, or a trio of women singing the traditional songs. Sometimes to speed it up, a recorded fast song was played and then everybody hightailed it quickly along. 

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All the colorful costumes were beautiful, and it was so enjoyable watching all the ages participating and sharing their passion. The music was interesting and inspiring, and the recorded dance song was snappy, too.

The parade went until about 3-ish with a thirty-minute break and a few little breaks along the way. I think there will be lots of tired dancers this morning.

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